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On May 4, 2009 MAIMITI, our brand new
DeFever 45 after-cabin had her first
salt water contact in the Victoria Harbor basin, Hong Kong. She
had been shipped from Shanghai to Hong
Kong and we were there waiting for her.
MAIMITI was moored for two weeks at the
Hebe Haven YC in Sha Pak, Hong Kong, a
quiet and safe place to get her ready before crossing the
South China Sea. On May 21 we left the
Hebe Haven YC, and three days and seven hours later we landed at Matalvi
Island, Philippines.
We had good weather crossing the South
China Sea, but from the second day we
experienced a 15-18 knot SE wind with a rough sea and one knot
current against us. We were late on our
schedule due to the late delivery of MAIMITI so we couldnˇ¦t spend too much
time cruising the Philippines. Because
of the possibility of a typhoon and because we wanted to arrive in Singapore
before the setting of the SW monsoon, we had a fast passage through the Philippine Islands, clearing in at Subic
Bay and clearing out at Puerto Princesa,
Palawan region.
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We cruised from Subic Bay to Kudat,
Malaysia through the Sulu Sea along the
east coast of Palawan in nine days, with daylight legs of 70-100
miles. We rested at anchor at night in
the several sheltered anchorages in the area. On the Sulu Sea and generally on
the South East Asia Sea, there are so
many unlit nets and fish traps that itˇ¦s not advisable to cruise this area at
night. The Filipino are poor people, and
fishing is widely practiced by
everybody. They use a balanced pirogue and they
seldom paddle on the open sea, while
someone has a small sail or an outboard
engine. No one asked us for anything
except the immigration and customs
officials.
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We crossed the Balabac Strait and the
Philippines to the Malaysia border with
a smooth sea, and we landed in Kudat, North Borneo without any
problem. We stopped at Kudat for a
couple of days for provisioning, and on June 9 we made the next leg to Kota
Kinabalu where we spent the night at
anchor in a bay south of Gaya Island. The next day we headed to Labuan, a duty
free area in front of Brunei. We
anchored in the commercial harbor and got a clearance for Brunei. The next day
we headed to Brunei, hoping to have a
fast and inexpensive refueling, but after we cleared in we discovered
that we had to make an appointment and
pay at the petrol main office in the town a couple of days in advance. We
decided not to refuel, and the next day
we left Brunei for Bintulu. There is a striking contrast between the
Philippines and Borneo, Malaysia. In the
latter they are rich from oil, they have
brick houses, paved roads, new marinas, and so
on.
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The sea on the west side of Borneo is
generally smooth and cruising this area
was not too straining, but we had a 190 mile night trip across a wide
area of oil rigs and we had to be
careful to stay away from them. When we arrived in Bintulu the next day, we
discovered that it is a commercial
harbor with no space or facilities for
pleasure boats, so we didnˇ¦t stop there and we
decided to go further south.
The sea was so calm that we spent the
next night at anchor at sea, about 10
miles off the Sarawak coast in 12 m (40 ft) of water. The day after,
at sunset, we anchored in the mouth of
the Rajang river, some 63 miles from Kutching (the southermost city of
Malaysian Borneo), where we arrived on
June 15, 2009. Kuching isnˇ¦t a good place to refuel and there arenˇ¦t
any yacht facilities. There is a marina
under construction, but nothing at the present.
Three days later, after checking the
weather by GRIB files, we left Pirate
Bay (!!!!) on the west corner of Borneo and we got under way to the
Singapore area. If you donˇ¦t need to
land in Singapore (as we did) you can
head to Sebana Cove on the Malaysian
Peninsula few miles away, or to Johor
Bahru, without clearing in Singapore.
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Crossing from Borneo to the Singapore
Strait we had very good weather - light
wind, smooth sea, and a favorable current getting stronger, so
we arrived at the Singapore Straitˇ¦s
entrance at 3 a.m, even decreasing our speed to the minimum to keep the boatˇ¦s
stabilizers working (there was some
swell). The night was dark with no moon, and it was cloudy and there were
an incredible number of ships at anchor
or moving everywhere. It was an unpleasant experience even with the best
radar on board, but we did it! On June
22 at 7 a.m., after one night on watch we got a rest anchoring on the
Santi River, just in front of the east
side of Singapore; two hours later we
went up the river to Sebana Cove Marina.
Sebana Cove Marina is a nice, safe, well
kept marina, as many in Malaysia are,
but it was too far away from any town and any shop. Two days a
week there is a minivan going to the
closest village for shopping and provisioning. After one week we moved 60
mg away to Johor Bahru, always on
Malaysia, but in front of the west side of Singapore, where it is easier,
to go to Singapore - less than one hour
by bus! From Johor Bahruˇ¦s new marina (free, no charge, including water
and power!!) to Langkawi we had always
been cruising in daylight. It was not especially interesting and we spent
no more than a couple of nights at each
anchorage. The water was murky and dirty (as it was in the South China
Sea) and we did not swim or fish because
of too many plastic bags and logs. Approaching Langkawi (the westernmost
Malaysian island, on the Malacca Strait)
we saw the sea turning greenish and we hoped to find clear water around
the Thailandˇ¦s islands.
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Actually the islands that stand outside
the Phuket area are clear with blue
water and some sand beaches as well, but there are so many tourist,
diving, and local fishing boats going to
and fro from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. that it was impossible to relax at anchor or
find a secluded anchorage as we are
accustomed to. We were pushed to move away from that island or anchorage.
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In the Phuket area, we visited the
famous Phang Nga Bay. It is impressive
because of the rocky islands rising vertically out of the sea, but here
again the water is brownish/greenish and
there are a lot of big jellyfishes.
On her first trip, from Hong Kong to
Phuket, MAIMITI covered roughly 3500
miles
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Now we plan to spend a few months here
and when the SW monsoon season ends, we
plan to come back to the South Pacific .
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Cited
Reference: DeFever Cruisers Magazine,
Winter 2010
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